jcwit
member
fguffey, a layer of auto polish/wax thinner than what you would put on your cars finish is not going to hurt one Iota, the fingerprints you leave from loading the mags are more than likely thicker.
Keeping Brass Shiny
- Thread starter OldmanFCSA
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medalguy
Member
Toss your loaded ammo back in the tumbler for about 15 minutes for one final shine before putting it away.
And remember, tarnish is really oxidation of the brass surface. Keep oxygen (air) away from it and that will decrease chances of oxidation. And oh yeah, tarnished brass of mine shoots just as accurately as bright purty brass.
And remember, tarnish is really oxidation of the brass surface. Keep oxygen (air) away from it and that will decrease chances of oxidation. And oh yeah, tarnished brass of mine shoots just as accurately as bright purty brass.
OldmanFCSA
Member
Thanks for the replies, everyone!!!
I typically bag every round loaded in large heavy-duty Zip-Loc style bags, and then store in an ammo can.
I've got ammo I loaded in 1982 that is still clean and shoots very accurately, 25-06 and 243Win.
For my pistol brass, after loading I re-tumble it with corncob media, clean in a fluffy bathtowel (wife hates it when I do this), bag and store in ammo can. It looks great for a long time.
However, just curious if there is any GOOD way to prevent the normal oxidation from occurring on brass, in a way that will not cause problems in the chamber. Like a chemical treatment of the brass sealing it until next cleaning. A treatment that will seal out the oxygen - air . ??
Thank you everyone for your input.
I typically bag every round loaded in large heavy-duty Zip-Loc style bags, and then store in an ammo can.
I've got ammo I loaded in 1982 that is still clean and shoots very accurately, 25-06 and 243Win.
For my pistol brass, after loading I re-tumble it with corncob media, clean in a fluffy bathtowel (wife hates it when I do this), bag and store in ammo can. It looks great for a long time.
However, just curious if there is any GOOD way to prevent the normal oxidation from occurring on brass, in a way that will not cause problems in the chamber. Like a chemical treatment of the brass sealing it until next cleaning. A treatment that will seal out the oxygen - air . ??
Thank you everyone for your input.
jcwit
member
Years ago there was a bag thing, have no idea what it was, that mom used to put in the silverwear chest to prevent tarnish, but she still polished the silver ware before the holidays.
Check with someone who collects new silver coins. They may have an idea.
Here's a find, google "how to keep silver from tarnishing", I know you're asking about brass but its the same as silver as far as tarnish goes.
Check with someone who collects new silver coins. They may have an idea.
Here's a find, google "how to keep silver from tarnishing", I know you're asking about brass but its the same as silver as far as tarnish goes.
LiveLife
Member
I keep my match/range/plinking reloads in Folgers coffee cans with plastic snap lids and they do not develop tarnish on the brass case that's been tumble polished with either brass polish like Dillon/MidwayUSA or NuFinish. I usually shoot my reloads within a year, so can't say how long they would be tarnish-free.OldmanFCSA said:
I keep my Golden Saber/Gold Dot JHP reloads in Food Saver vacuum sealed plastic bags. I have never seen any tarnish develop on the nickel plated or brass cases.
Russia lacquer coated their steel cased ammo and it seem to do a good job of keeping them rust free. But it would be a little messy dipping all those rounds in lacquer, not to mention having lacquer chips all over your firearms.
If you are looking for tarnish-free long-term storage, brass/NuFinish polish and vacuum packing in plastic is what I would recommend.
jcwit,
"...and when I chamber a round I want nothing between the case and chamber, polish, wax, lube or anything else that seals the atmosphere from the case could prevent the case from locking onto the chamber"
"I use corn cob media and nothing"
Reloading is a discipline....to me, another question was asked on another thread and the answer was "Yes, it is OK, just wing-it. I want my case to lock to the chamber. Again, if I want to be vain and polish my brass I will use a home made spinner.
The advantage to cleaning brass with a spinner is for short runs of 20 cases or less, it takes less time to spin 20 cases than it takes to tumble them.
F. Guffey
"...and when I chamber a round I want nothing between the case and chamber, polish, wax, lube or anything else that seals the atmosphere from the case could prevent the case from locking onto the chamber"
"I use corn cob media and nothing"
Reloading is a discipline....to me, another question was asked on another thread and the answer was "Yes, it is OK, just wing-it. I want my case to lock to the chamber. Again, if I want to be vain and polish my brass I will use a home made spinner.
The advantage to cleaning brass with a spinner is for short runs of 20 cases or less, it takes less time to spin 20 cases than it takes to tumble them.
F. Guffey
jcwit,
"Enlighten me as to how it takes any time to tumble brass? Dump it in and go about your business, dump it out. You spend no time watching it tumble.
Unless I'm missing something, it's like an automatic washer, no one watches the cloths wash, that's was the idea behind the automatic washer.
Have a good day"
I will type slower, I build a rifle, I form cases, I spin cases instead of tumbling, again tumbling could take 1 + hours, spinning would require less then 10 minutes.
Or I go to the range with a friend that lives less than a mile from the range,. as was the case with a 300 Win Mag Model 70 Winchester, nothing worked, so he has bullets, powder primers and dies and we do not have an hour to tumble the cases and he does not have enough 300 Win Mag cases that are prepped, by spinning we were back at the range, the rifle went back to Winchester, the $10.00 we pay to use the range is for all day.
'fguffey, a layer of auto polish/wax thinner than what you would put on your cars finish is not going to hurt one.....'
Typing slower: I did not ask you how thick a coating was on the case, I said I did not want anything between the case and chamber, I did not tell you not to do it, matter has weight and takes up space, because time is a factor I am happy with a small amount of air between the case and chamber.
F. Guffey
"Enlighten me as to how it takes any time to tumble brass? Dump it in and go about your business, dump it out. You spend no time watching it tumble.
Unless I'm missing something, it's like an automatic washer, no one watches the cloths wash, that's was the idea behind the automatic washer.
Have a good day"
I will type slower, I build a rifle, I form cases, I spin cases instead of tumbling, again tumbling could take 1 + hours, spinning would require less then 10 minutes.
Or I go to the range with a friend that lives less than a mile from the range,. as was the case with a 300 Win Mag Model 70 Winchester, nothing worked, so he has bullets, powder primers and dies and we do not have an hour to tumble the cases and he does not have enough 300 Win Mag cases that are prepped, by spinning we were back at the range, the rifle went back to Winchester, the $10.00 we pay to use the range is for all day.
'fguffey, a layer of auto polish/wax thinner than what you would put on your cars finish is not going to hurt one.....'
Typing slower: I did not ask you how thick a coating was on the case, I said I did not want anything between the case and chamber, I did not tell you not to do it, matter has weight and takes up space, because time is a factor I am happy with a small amount of air between the case and chamber.
F. Guffey
Pugsbrew, I have an in-line, angle and butt grinder, the machine is used to make pilots, tapper gages and even head space gages, problems with that is there is the perception head space gages are made by Martians, not humans.
Some use the Lee Zip Drive to polish cases, it works but the shell holder covers the head of the case, I grind punches and round shafts with a taper, then install the tapered pilot in a drill and use to spin cases, I first use green 3M scoth brite pads on the worst of cases then steel wool, the advantage with spinning the cases is the open end, no shell holder, steel wool can be used to hold the case against the spinner, this shines the case head and case body, care must be taken for cases with week necks because of splits.
F. Guffey
Some use the Lee Zip Drive to polish cases, it works but the shell holder covers the head of the case, I grind punches and round shafts with a taper, then install the tapered pilot in a drill and use to spin cases, I first use green 3M scoth brite pads on the worst of cases then steel wool, the advantage with spinning the cases is the open end, no shell holder, steel wool can be used to hold the case against the spinner, this shines the case head and case body, care must be taken for cases with week necks because of splits.
F. Guffey
OldmanFCSA
Member
I agree "it certainly isn't worth degrading people over. "
Mods - please lock this thread - it is going to end badly.
OldmanFSCA want to know how to keep his brass looking good.
"In slow times I "match" prepare my brass up to point of installing primer.
Then I store it for the day it gets reloaded. How do I stop the "tarnish ageing " process?"
"I mean keeping it super shiney!"
If his brass is looking good I will assume he has the tumbling part down to his satisfaction.
Again, he can use ammo cans, just heat the can (do not burn the paint or melt the seal).
He can use glass canning jars with good lids, just heat the jar, the large wide mouth jars work for me.
Again, I do not use anything in my tumbler but tumbling media, on short notice I spin cases with a home made spinner, saves time, it takes an hour to tumble 1 case or two hundred, I can spin 20 300 Win Mag cases in less than 10 minutes, it is an option.
And I am not a facilitator, I am not a Constituent. , I have one standard for behavior and character.
There are inert gases that can be used instead of heat, tons of food is stored in this manner, caution when using 'hot ice' never close the lid while it is evaporating, allow the gas to displace the air/atmosphere in the container then remove the 'ice' before closing the lid.
F. Guffey
"In slow times I "match" prepare my brass up to point of installing primer.
Then I store it for the day it gets reloaded. How do I stop the "tarnish ageing " process?"
"I mean keeping it super shiney!"
If his brass is looking good I will assume he has the tumbling part down to his satisfaction.
Again, he can use ammo cans, just heat the can (do not burn the paint or melt the seal).
He can use glass canning jars with good lids, just heat the jar, the large wide mouth jars work for me.
Again, I do not use anything in my tumbler but tumbling media, on short notice I spin cases with a home made spinner, saves time, it takes an hour to tumble 1 case or two hundred, I can spin 20 300 Win Mag cases in less than 10 minutes, it is an option.
And I am not a facilitator, I am not a Constituent. , I have one standard for behavior and character.
There are inert gases that can be used instead of heat, tons of food is stored in this manner, caution when using 'hot ice' never close the lid while it is evaporating, allow the gas to displace the air/atmosphere in the container then remove the 'ice' before closing the lid.
F. Guffey
LBEE
Member
I use the Stainless Steel & a rock tumbler to polish mine. I did use the tumbler & corn cob
media till looking at the difference with the Stainless method where the inside of the case , primer pocket, are also shiny & clean in a lot less time.
media till looking at the difference with the Stainless method where the inside of the case , primer pocket, are also shiny & clean in a lot less time.
http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/?gclid=CK6X2cDa0aoCFcY32godDU-hzw
A good introduction to stainless pins should be the cost, pins, tumbler and lime shine $259.00.
Their media, their tumbler, it was not that long ago when ceramic was the rage, to be among the IN on the reloading forums ceramic was the standard, then it was realized ceramic was heavier and the tumbler designed for ground up walnuts and cob could not handle the extra weight.
Then there is "LIME SHINE"? There are reloaders that should know better signing up for it without questioning all the answers.
For the worst of cases I use Vinegar, once for the life of the case for a maximum of 15 minutes. I tried 30 minutes with small batches, the cases turned pink/orange, therefore 20 minutes is too long, to remove the pink/orange I could have spun the cases and removed the DAMAGE but I was cleaning old rusty tools that have a lot of rust, not something someone wants to start and forget but the process was slow, to speed up cleaning cast iron use H2S03, H2S03 is non forgiving and most certainly not for those that do not question all the answers, time is cut to seconds.
I use media and nothing, in the old days the edge was in the oil additive, I used Rislone, they guaranteed me if their product did not help my engine it would do nothing to hurt it. I still us it but not in my engines.
And Marvel Mystery oil, I still use it also, for everything.
F. Guffey
A good introduction to stainless pins should be the cost, pins, tumbler and lime shine $259.00.
Their media, their tumbler, it was not that long ago when ceramic was the rage, to be among the IN on the reloading forums ceramic was the standard, then it was realized ceramic was heavier and the tumbler designed for ground up walnuts and cob could not handle the extra weight.
Then there is "LIME SHINE"? There are reloaders that should know better signing up for it without questioning all the answers.
For the worst of cases I use Vinegar, once for the life of the case for a maximum of 15 minutes. I tried 30 minutes with small batches, the cases turned pink/orange, therefore 20 minutes is too long, to remove the pink/orange I could have spun the cases and removed the DAMAGE but I was cleaning old rusty tools that have a lot of rust, not something someone wants to start and forget but the process was slow, to speed up cleaning cast iron use H2S03, H2S03 is non forgiving and most certainly not for those that do not question all the answers, time is cut to seconds.
I use media and nothing, in the old days the edge was in the oil additive, I used Rislone, they guaranteed me if their product did not help my engine it would do nothing to hurt it. I still us it but not in my engines.
And Marvel Mystery oil, I still use it also, for everything.
F. Guffey
jcwit
member
If your brass is turning pink or orange colored for any reason as in a vinger bath you are leaching the zinc out of the brass.
As far as using S/S pins and a rock tumbler "rotary type" a person can cut the cost drastically by using the rotary tumbler available from Harbor Freight, cost approx $39.00. Granted it not as heavy duty as the Thumblers Tumbler, but then it works fine and doesn't cost $150 to $200 either.
Regarding LemiShine, its available at WalMart.
Final thoughts: If one wants shinney brass at least on the outside, tumble with corn cob media 20/40 grit, which is fine so as not to plug primer pockets or flash holes, with a capfull or 2 of liquid auto cleaner wax/polish added to the corn cob media. It will also add a extremely light coating to the brass to retard tarnish.
How do I know this works? I've been reloading for almost 50 years, with time comes experience, with experience comes knowledge. But there is still much to learn even then.
As far as using S/S pins and a rock tumbler "rotary type" a person can cut the cost drastically by using the rotary tumbler available from Harbor Freight, cost approx $39.00. Granted it not as heavy duty as the Thumblers Tumbler, but then it works fine and doesn't cost $150 to $200 either.
Regarding LemiShine, its available at WalMart.
Final thoughts: If one wants shinney brass at least on the outside, tumble with corn cob media 20/40 grit, which is fine so as not to plug primer pockets or flash holes, with a capfull or 2 of liquid auto cleaner wax/polish added to the corn cob media. It will also add a extremely light coating to the brass to retard tarnish.
How do I know this works? I've been reloading for almost 50 years, with time comes experience, with experience comes knowledge. But there is still much to learn even then.
SSN Vet
Member
another NuFinish user here....
I think the film makes resizing a bit easier as well.
I also dab a touch of Imperial on every 10th case prior to sizing and the thin wax film keeps them looking nice in the box untill used.
I think the film makes resizing a bit easier as well.
I also dab a touch of Imperial on every 10th case prior to sizing and the thin wax film keeps them looking nice in the box untill used.
1SOW
Member
Walkalong, I really like that pic!
When it's hard to find the nickle plated amongst the polished brass, the cases are shiny.
When it's hard to find the nickle plated amongst the polished brass, the cases are shiny.
Sport45
Member
I tumble my brass with a Lyman Turbo 1200 (or something like that) with ground walnut until it's clean. I don't want any wax or anything else left on the brass when I'm done. The brass is not supposed to be lubricated in any way, shape, or form for use in any gun I own. I know some guns require lubricated cases, but I haven't seen one at the ranges I've been to.
If the brass tarnishes a bit before I use it, so be it. That just means I waited too long to shoot it.
If the brass tarnishes a bit before I use it, so be it. That just means I waited too long to shoot it.
I put some .357 brass in the tumbler last night after trimming, deburring and chamfering. I only meant to tumble them for a few minutes as they were tumbled before sizing and trimming. I really need to go out to the shed and get them.
I bet they are shiny.
I bet they are shiny.
jcwit
member
So factory loaded ammo that has been tumbled with a polish and an additive to keep it from tarnishing as it sits on retail shelves, sometimes for years is not suitable for your firearms. OOOOOOOOOOOOOOkay
Whatever trips your trigger.
Sport45
Member
I haven't brought any store-bought ammo (except .22lr and shotshells) into my house in a long time. What I have doesn't look any more shiny than my reloads. How long do they expect the shine to last after they make it?
I sit there while watching TV and use Never dull..and polish each case to a mirror shine..then freeze them until ready to use. I pre-heat the oven to 250 degrees and heat for 10 minutes until ready to serve!
By the way..just kidding!
By the way..just kidding!
jcwit
member
No idea really, but I have .22 rimfire from the 70's thats still shinney.
Only factory I've bought in the last 20/30 years thats reloadable is odd ball calibers where brass is hard to come by ie; 7.5 x 54 French MAS, 7.7 Japanese, 7.5 Schmidt Rubin ect. I reload for close to 40 different calibers, been reloading for around 50 years.
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