Cylinder rotation play. How much is too much?

[BCRider]

OK, so my first revolver came home with me today. A used S&W 28 Highway Patrolman with a 6 inch (5 3/4 actually) barrel. It's in lovely shape other than for the cylinder play issue which suggests that it has been used a reasonable amount in the past. But the overall condition was so nice I bought it anyway.

So to the issue. It has some side to side rotational play. To MY mind it's too much and the "issue" will be dealt with in due course by fitting an oversized cylinder stop. But the question in the meantime is how much is tolerable and how much is too much.

In looking around on the web for this topic, including searching THR, I found lots of "they all do this a little" BUT NO ONE SAID JUST HOW MUCH A "LITTLE" OR "OK" ACTUALLY IS ! ! ! ! ! ! GRRRRRRR ! ! ! ! !


So no more fence sitting. Out on the outer surface of the cylinder just how much is OK and how much is worth worrying about. In my case I've got around a 1/16 of an inch of rotational movement where the outer surface passes back and forth past the edge of the top strap. It may be slightly less but I'll have to put the side cover back on after I clean and oil the innards to measure it. Is this enough to put it away until I get the oversized stop fitted or can I shoot it without issue in the meantime?

 

[ramis]

In my case I've got around a 1/16 of an inch of rotational movement where the outer surface passes back and forth past the edge of the top strap.

In that in full lockup?

Have you gone through the revolver check up?

http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430

 

[BCRider]

Yeah, that's in full lockup both with the hammer back ready to fire in SA mode as well as doing the trigger pulled drop the hammer option as mentioned in that thread. No difference at all from one to the other.

Also I overestimated the amount. It's more like 1/32 inch or just a hair more. No where near the 1/16 I posted earlier. Being so technically OCD it just LOOKED like it was double that much....

With the side plate off for checkout/cleaning I was able to cut the play in roughly half by pushing the cylinder stop block over so it was pushed against the one side of the frame slot. So from that as well as the fact that an oversize stop would fit in the cylinder grooves better this would seem to be the best and obvious solution.

Still, the part will take a while to order and arrive. I'd like to shoot it if a 1/32 inch rotational play isn't too much.

 

[woad_yurt]

My Model 10 probably has 1/32" of full lock-up play and it shoots very well.

 

[dfariswheel]

There is no standard or specification for rotational play on the S&W.

Putting the action at full cock, or holding the trigger back is not a valid test for the S&W.
The S&W action is designed to allow the cylinder to be slightly loose at the moment of ignition, and in order for it to function properly, it must have some looseness.

"How much if too much" is subjective. The only valid test is how the gun shoots.
If it's accurate and isn't blowing bullet metal out the barrel/cylinder gap, it's working properly.
If you attempt to remove ALL looseness by fitting an over-sized locking bolt, you may interfere with proper chamber/bore alignment.

Cocking a S&W or holding the trigger back may SEEM to tighten it up, but this is nothing more than spring tension and parts interference which has no effect on actual looseness. The looseness is still there, just masked by the tension. When the gun is fired, the force will move things to their actual limits.

Being subjective, if the cylinder seems to be too loose, you can fit an over-sized bolt, but again, don't fit it so tight that the cylinder is locked TOO tight. This will prevent proper operation and may cause mis-alignment problems.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

One thirty-second inch of rotation sounds OK to me.

Look at the bolt notches on the cylinder. The edges and sides should be sharp and square with no peening or battering.

 

[.41Dave]

slight rotational play in the cylinder is normal for an S&W revolver. Also, please note that if the revolver is empty, this rotational play will be exaggerated by the play in the ejector star. As long as the gun is not shaving lead and the cylinder cannot be rolled out of lock by moderate hand pressure, all is well.

 

[9mmepiphany]

if you want a wheelgun which has no play when at full lockup, you have to get yourself a Colt Python or Diamondback

 

[Wheeldog]

Check it with trigger pulled fully to the rear. Many times the hand will take up slack.

 

[Jim K]

Please try to get an accurate measurement, and not with a ruler. 1/16" (.0625") would be so bad as to indicate severe breakage, not just wear. 1/32" (.03125") would also be far too much. While S&W revolvers do tend to have a bit of "wiggle" even in lockup, it is more like 0 to .001" in a new gun. My "shot to heck" Model 19 runs about .012" on the worst chamber, but that is after thousands of rounds of fast DA firing.

Jim

 

[easyrider604]

My 586 has between 1/64" and 1/32" on all six chambers and is shooting fine. Very slight rotational play will allow the chamber to center on the barrel, in case of less than perfect alignment.

Of course, tighter feels better. The more important criteria is that each chamber must be aligned to the barrel.

 

[BCRider]

Thankyou Jim and easyrider for the measurements and measurement info. That helps a lot.

Wheeldog, I tried that as well and it didn't make any difference.

.41Dave, I'd guess that sort of falls into line with Wheeldog's info. With rounds chambered the hand will have something to work with.

Haranguer, my cylinder does have a small amount of peening on the notches. I'm guessing that this means it saw a lot of use?

Anyhow, thanks all. I'll be out to shoot it in two or three days and I'll report back on the findings.

 

[Hawk]

My latest S&W has about 1/16" of rotational play (call it a fat 1/32nd each way). The weird part is that when the trigger is released, the cylinder rotates a little clockwise (when viewed from the rear) almost like the stop was holding it a smidgin away from where it "wanted" to be.

How it shoots remains a mystery as I haven't found any .32-20 to feed it yet. It was made a little bit before my father was born so I plan on being very forgiving of whatever wear, tear and abuse it may have endured in its earlier life.

I can't tell exactly where the play is coming from - the stop does have some "wiggle" in its slot but I couldn't tell if the slot is oversized or the stop undersized or both. The stop slots in the cylinder don't appear buggered but are the teensiest bit wallered out in the middle if my Mark 1 eyeball is working right. If it shoots OK I intend to not worry about it.

I doubt I'll look as good when I'm 100 - even if someone does overbuff and nickel plate me.