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Yeah, I don't think I would "run" any myself but being adjustable, I can set them "just right" and measure them to quantify what "just right" is, in thousandths of an inch. Not completely unlike a fitting shot gun, just much cheaper...

38 years to the day of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firearm_Owners_Protection_Act

The steel must stay flat, for the splatter to not go back towards the shooter. It matters less the further away you are but ”pistol at home”, says inside 100 yds. I have my steel inside a bullet trap, with a lip on the front edge, with no angle on the steel plates and nothing sticking out...

I have landed on loads, lots of times because how they “feel” and accuracy over maximum or some certain velocity. I suppose power factors rely on velocity but that can be quite different, depending on projectile weight. None of those matter if they don’t run 100% though, that’s #1 for me...

It certainly transfers onto steel even better than paper, without lube and more speed...

I'd use a laser sensor myself, not unlike I use on automated preses. It just detects something is not where it should be and stops. And if it can "see" that everything is in the right place, it carries on. The base being wider than the neck, it would be implemented opposite of my use...

It's also much softer. Paper will rub lead off a bullet... Try this with an FMJ.

All you would need is a delay "off" relay, if all you are controlling is on time. I used a cheap one on this device https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u0YSMWp8XI&t=4s $12 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081N5NG8Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's cooler now but I haven't got around to posting the update.

^ yeah but they could have just said DHS monitors everything...

All I have done with mine is 223 brass but it is just decapping... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NW77TDhes10

Lubricity is the property of a lubricant that enables it to reduce friction between two surfaces. Jacketed bullets do not have any lubricant on them but cast ones do and yes, one isn't as easy to push down the bore as the other.

All work and no play, makes... Lots of rain and that brings road work, thats one down... The home made equipment, I used. and on to fixing that "turtle problem" at my buddies favorite fishing hole...

Hours of work ~$100 each. Creating parts that don’t exist and making them work together.

I made a manifold that the 20 lb tank with QD connects to and ran hard line to the torches from it. Use the valve on the tank and you can leave the torches alone.

I was on that path and found a cheaper solution for me and sold (traded) the A&D afterwords. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GYWgAdKzHs but I waste the money other places...

My Walter sport model V is the most accurate one I have. I have picked up 510’s for as little as $35 at estate sales and they are fun and accurate but not very easy to mount optics too. The Savage 24 will get you a single shot .22 on top and a shotgun barrel on the bottom. TC contenders can...

^ those also nest well in 3's, how they have used them at nationals in the past that way. I keep one down at the farm myself. It and the Shotmarker are very close.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CG61B9M7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

That is my fault, I was talking about a different scope, that would replace the faulty one (now two), the Arken on the 10/22 (#338). Stupid simple zero stop, that should be on everything. I was getting ~ 50 moa out of the Serrc's, I have played with so far. Not sure what made that last one...