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One thing to verify with this style of coil spring lock is the screws that hold the "guard plate" (as you called it) are not loose but snug. If they get loose, then pieces inside the lock get out of position, such as the fly. (don't ask how I know) Tomorrow, if possible, I will remove the lock from my TC Renegade (same type), remove the "guard plate" and take a picture of the parts positioning for comparison.
 
whisler said:
One thing to verify with this style of coil spring lock is the screws that hold the "guard plate" (as you called it) are not loose but snug. If they get loose, then pieces inside the lock get out of position, such as the fly. (don't ask how I know) Tomorrow, if possible, I will remove the lock from my TC Renegade (same type), remove the "guard plate" and take a picture of the parts positioning for comparison.
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Thank you very very much! I think that may be part of my problem. Those two screws that hold the piece I don't know the proper name for were rather loose and tightening did not help. I have feeling you are right about the problem being behind the piece. What exactly should I be calling it?
 
I believe it's the thing-a-ma-jiggy. Or a what-cha-ma-call-it. "tumbler plate"? Good question. Maybe, like the man with no name, it's the part with no name. Once you get it fixed, we'll call it "good". :rofl:
 
Ugly Sauce said:
I believe it's the thing-a-ma-jiggy. Or a what-cha-ma-call-it. "tumbler plate"? Good question. Maybe, like the man with no name, it's the part with no name. Once you get it fixed, we'll call it "good". :rofl:
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I didn't grow up using the proper term for anything lol. Round here we call a spinning reel for a fishing rod a "open face reel"
 
With the lock in your hand and at the uncocked position, slowly cock it. The fly will be down against the half cock notch. As the hammer is cocked and the sear goes by the fly, the fly will travel with the sear off the half cock notch. Once the sear passes the fly, the fly will go back down against the half cock notch and the lock will be in full cocked position. The fly is now in position to protect the half cock notch if the set trigger is used. When the trigger is pulled and the tumbler is rotating back around, the fly will cause the sear to miss the half cock notch. When you want to go to half cock for hunting or walking around, when the lock is brought up to half cock the fly goes back allowing the sear to go in the half cock notch.
 
Didn't get the promised pictures today, but will try tomorrow. If I remember correctly, when I discovered this problem, the fly had fallen out of position due to the loose plate. I put it back into position and tightened the plate and all was well.
 
whisler said:
Didn't get the promised pictures today, but will try tomorrow. If I remember correctly, when I discovered this problem, the fly had fallen out of position due to the loose plate. I put it back into position and tightened the plate and all was well.
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. Yea I was gonna take the bridle (as I now know it is called) off and have a look but I was at work from 8 to 6:30 today so it will have to wait
 
Put the cock at 1/2 cock when removing and installing bridle. When removing bridle, hold everything steady so parts stay in place. Without the bridle the parts are rather loose. It may take a little fiddling to get the bridle screw holes realigned to put the screws back in. Go gently so as not to cross thread the screws. I hope this helps.
ETA; certainly not the cleanest lock internals. I will try to do better.
 
The more I studied the look of the parts the more I became convinced that everything is fitted in there the only way it could go. So I oiled up the parts put the bridle back on, put the lock back on the gun, and whatta ya know now the set works fine! Just needed some lube
 
whisler said:
Great!
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Couldnt have done it without you. If you hadn't warned me about everything trying to come apart when you cock it without the bridle on id be crawling around the kitchen floor hunting for everything right now. Only had to hunt for the fly for about 10 minutes when I first got goin. Not to mention your lock made a great frame of reference
 
Appalachiannative said:
That's exactly what it does is whack it down past the halfway point. Hits it real hard too. Feel like the hammer on this thing travels faster than anything else I own! Modern center-fire arms included. Just gotta get me some fuel for my torch and I'll be trying that little experiment with the hammer bending. The hammer comes off this thing real easy... Honestly too easy. That's another funky thing about this lock is that I keep having to tighten the hammer screw every time I take her out shooting. Gets to where it wiggles left to right but all it takes is about a half a turn with a flat head and it tightens back up. All I know is this flint gun is so far four times more fun to shoot than a percussion gun. I've been using the powder horns it came with and I just feel like priming a pan with the little horn is easier for me than fiddling with a cap. I also just enjoy imagining how things where in the 18th century while I'm shooting. History was my favorite subject in school and that says a lot because I hated school lol
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Track of the Wolf sells a replacement lock for the T/C that you might consider. The geometry of the lock is better and it won't chew up flints as bad. I replaced the original T/C lock with it and the thing sparks much better and doesn't appear to be as hard on the flint.
 
MVM912 said:
Track of the Wolf sells a replacement lock for the T/C that you might consider. The geometry of the lock is better and it won't chew up flints as bad. I replaced the original T/C lock with it and the thing sparks much better and doesn't appear to be as hard on the flint.
Click to expand...
Really I'll look into that. Didn't get around to bending the hammer today but did a lot of shooting. Biggest complaints about the lock so far is chewing up flints and after a few hours of shooting the bridle screws loosened up allowing the fly to come out of alignment once again. But the was after shooting over and over again from 8 AM till Noon. The hammer screw also loosens itself after long periods of use but they all tighten right back up. My flint made it threw most of it but I had to turn it around and use the other side for that last three shots
 
Be advised, the L&R T/C replacement lock that Track of the Wolf sells is NOT a direct replacement. A significant amount of wood needs to be hogged out of the lock mortise in order to accommodate the leaf spring used by that lock. as you already know, the T/C uses a coil spring. Unless you want to go this route, I would either bend the hammer or order the replacement hammer from the Gun Works Store.
 
Just got done heating, bending, quenching then heating and quenching again to re shape and temper my hammer. here is a before and after. Granted the before has way to big of a flint but keep in mind both shots are the same lock in half cock before and after my adjustment. IMG_20220518_210447062_MP.jpg big thanks to ugly sauce for the advice! check out the difference in how it hits the frizzen! the parts colored in blue are the old scratches from before the adjustment IMG_20220606_222754394_MP.jpg IMG_20220606_222853066.jpg
 
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